A Pinoy’s Guide to Taipei
I’m writing this while esconced snugly in my bed at my hotel room in Ximending. This is my sixth trip to this city and on my 11th day of a 13-day holiday. Nope, I haven’t tired of Taipei yet. I figured, why not write a guide in the form of good to know facts. Here goes.
1. Cebu Pacific is not always the cheapest. Yup, we’ve all been made to believe it has the lowest fare. Nope. On my trip to HongKong last November for my birthday, their flight cost the same as my Cathay Pacific flight on the same date and same time (around 5:30am on a Monday). For Taipei, check out Eva Air and Starlux when they have seat sales
If you consider cost of adding luggage to your Cebu Pacific flight, you’ll see how it’s almost the same as full-service airlines. Yeah, I know. A lot of people like Cebu Pacific’s red eye flights coz they get full days on arrival and departure. In the case of Taipei, you gotta factor in transportation cost from the airport as the buses or trains might not be running then. Back in those days when I was much younger and really traveling on a budget, I’d sleep at the airport until the first bus (there was no airport MRT then) started its route.
2. Taipei is not as cheap as you think it would be. The current exchange rate hovers in the range of NT 1 = Php 1.6 – 1.75. Sounds like the Thai baht, eh? But here’s the thing, you can buy and eat stuff for just 10 baht. Not in Taipei. Noodle soup or fried rice at a small eatery will be NT 100 at least. Fancy a hotpot? That’s at least NT 750. Convert it to pesos and you can see how that same hotpot is so much cheaper back home.
Here are a sample of costs:
Taiwanese grilled sausage – NT 50
Bottle of water at 7-11 – NT 30
Bubble tea – at least NT 120
Budget about NT 250 per meal even when eating at the night market as you want to try everythinf you see. You pay NT 65 for a sausage and rice combo, get bubble tea for NT 120, try the fried taro balls for NT 30, and so on. See how it all piles up?
As for shopping, don’t expect big bargains or really cheap stuff like in Bangkok. I shop for stuff that I like and are not available back home such as my favorite walking shoes, Palladium, which are available back home but not as well-stocked as the stores in Taipei. I’m a sucker for these shoes because they’re so comfortable and are everwhere in Taipei. That’s what I like with this city. Like Singapore and Hong Kong, it has goods and brands that aren’t available in the Philippines.
Accomodations are at the price level of Singapore. EXPENSIVE especially for solo travellers who have no one to split the cost of a double room with. Ximending where all the action is has higher room rates than Taipei Main Station and Banqiao. If the prices are too much, try a dorm bed in a hostel. Taipei has great hostels. Some even have gender segregated ones if you’re not comfortable staying in a mixed dorm. There are also hostels that have mini single rooms (just a bed and a small desk) and shared bathrooms. If you’re in a group, some hostels have quadruple rooms often with a private bathroom.
3. Get a SIM card and an Easy Pass on arrival. I get mine at Klook. A SIM card gives you unlimited access so you can use Google Maps for directions and train, MRT, and bus times. Having internet access all the time also means you can use Google Translate. Very helpful especially for those eateries with no English menu.
As for the EasyPass, use it for public transpo and for paying stuff. I’ve been using the same one since my first trip several years ago. I just top it up at the MRT stations or at 7-11.
4. Change all your money at Taoyuan airport.
No, you are not gonna get a better deal at a moneychanger in town because there isn’t any. Only banks are allowed to exchange money which means the rates are the same everywhere. Changing money at the airport is so much easier unlike in the banks in the city which requires lots of paperwork. The information counter of Taipei 101 Mall exchanges money but only dollars, not pesos.
5. Behave at the MRT
Even during rush hours, people still line up and get on and off the train properly. No pushing or shoving. Also, do not wait in front of the door. Wait by the side. Stations usually have floor markings that show where to stand. You’ll also see that the locals do not rush to the seats. In fact, some prefer to stand even if there are lots of empty seats. If you see an empty seat, do not rush to it like you’ve seen a pot of gold nor excitedly point an empty seat to your travelling buddies. So, put aside for the time being all the MRT/LRT riding techniques we all acquired from years of taking awful public transport in Metro Manila. It’s our opportunity to ride public transportation with our dignity intact. Savor it.
6. Just eat.
Eat at the night markets. Eat at the small eateries. Try the hotpot restos with unlimited Haagen Dasz ice-cream. Taipei or the whole of Taiwan is a foodie’s paradise. Even the food at Family Mart and 7-11 is good.
If staying at the Ximending, street vendors peddling dumplings and scallion pancakes are in the area where Uniqlon is. Go to the side of Uniqlo and see rows of benches where you can sit and eat.
The best-fried chicken IMHO is NOT Hot Star. The best one is the stall on the sidewalk as soon as you cross the street from the Jiantan MRT heading to the Shilin Night Market. You can’t miss the long line. It’s big, juicy, and crispy. Very very tasty.
Again, at Ximending, behind the Red House, along Neijang St and S. Xinyi road are local eateries. One of my faves is an eatery near the Neijang Hotel. You grab a takeout box and point what you like to the old lady who will then put it on the box. I once had a fried pork chop, 2 large pieces of braised pork, a serving of stir-fried spinach, and a cup of rice for NT 179. It’s very popular with locals.
7. Get out
With excellent transportation options, day trips outside Taipei are so easy to do. You can head to Taichung with the THSR and from there go to beautiful Sun Moon Lake. I’d recommend, though, that you spend at least a night at Sun Moon Lake like what I did. Other places to go to for a day are the aboriginal village of Wulai, Yehliu Geopark, and Keelung.
I really like Taipei. It’s such an easy city to get oriented with and navigate. It’s also very clean, organized, and safe.
NYE in Taipei
Finally, struck this off my bucket list. Have been wanting to spend my year end holiday in this favorite city of mine but the cost of accomodations on NYE have been putting me off. 15k for a room in 2-3 star hotel ain’t right. Booked way ahead this time and got decently priced rooms at Ximending on Jan 2 onwards. Dec 30-Jan 1, the dates when prices are exorbitant, I booked a double room bed in a dorm at a hostel at Taipei Main Station. It’s been a while since I stayed at a hostel but the bed was comfortable and the cubicle was roomy and had enough privacy and the toilet and shower facilities were clean and spacious.
Headed to Tamsui at around 6 for the 8:42 fireworks. The MRT was quite full. The 13-minute display was spectacular and being by the riverside, the view was expansive. The exodus to the MRT wasn’t quite as bad as I expected. Hundreds of people but all orderly. Rode on the second train to depart and headed back to the hostel to rest a bit as it was just a few minutes past 9pm.
Headed to the Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall at past 10:30pm . Lots of people at Taipei Main Station but everything is orderly. Getting of at the station, there were hundreds of people making their way to the huge center fronting the memorial hall. Hundreds more were on the streets but it was not crowded. I chose to stay at a spot just outside the gate and a few hundred meters from the MRT station entrance. It wasn’t an entire view of Taipei 101 but it would do. I’m more concerned with getting to the MRT after the fireworks as there were thousands of people. At few seconds before midnight, people started a countdown and off it went. Truly spectacular as light leapt off the building. I only videod about 2 and a half minutes of it as I saw people start running towards the MRT. As announced in the news, the show was only 5 minutes long, so I guess people started heading to the station halfway through it to beat everyone else. I figured I’d better join them. Still managed to see the last few seconds before I entered the station. Still very orderly with lots of marshalls herding the crowd. Got on the first train to leave.
I was really impressed how the local government units organized the fireworks shows at both Tamsui and Taipei 101. Kudos, especially to the MRT management as they really prepared for it. Trains were running efficiently and crowd control was so organized. There were additional signages to direct people and even to point our toilets. There were also rows and rows of portable toilets on the streets.
A Guide to Sun Moon Lake
The guide here is based on what I actually did on my trip this December 2023
From Taichung
For tourists, the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus 6670 stops are the ones that matter: Gancheng (origination point), Taichung TRA, Taichung HSR.
Take note that the Taichung TRA stop is not at the train station but at the Minzhou intersection stop about a hundred meters outside.
Since I was staying at a hotel near the station, I optes for thr Gancheng Station because it was nearer (just 6 mins walk) and was the first stop which means you get first dig at seats.
Take note that the Gancheng Station is an entire strip of stops. The one furthest is thr bus 6670 stop. You’ll see a signboard of Nantou Bus in one of the shop rows. You can buy your ticket or tour package there. Since I bought mine at Klook, I showed my QR code to the guy at the counter who gave me a loaded Easycard with the roundtrip fare.
Perhaps, because there were so few people on the 8:10am bus, the driver had me put my luggage on board where there was a large space
If coming from the HSR, the stop is right outside the station.
We arrived at the Shuishe Visitor Center about 2 hours later after making stops at Puli and at around Sun Moon Lake.
Getting to Ita Thao
The round the lake bus is 6669 with the stop at the 7-11 in Shuishe. Just swiped my Easycard (not the one I used in the Nantou bus though you could top up that one).
There is a LED board on the bus that announces the stops. Take note that the Ita Thao stop is labeled as “Yidashao” though the sign at the bus shed reads “Ita Thao.” Just like any bus in Taiwan, press the stop button as soon as the stop is announced so the bus driver knows you’re getting off, otherwise, unless someone flags down the bus at the shed, he’s not gonna stop.
Watch out for the imposing Wyndham Hotel by the bus stop. From there, it’s just a 5 minute walk to the main tourist area.
How about taking the boat?
Much faster is taking the boat from Shuishe Pier to Ita Thao. It’s just behind the visitor center, about 6 minutes walk following the signs. I was hesitant to take the boat due to my large suitcase but in the boat rides I took during my stay, I saw several people crossing to/from Shuishe and Ita Thao with large suitcases. There’s also enough room at the boat. In fact, considering that the 8:30am bus that I took to Shuishe had a regular seat layout, the boat seems more suitable as we had to put our suitcases on the bus aisle whicb significantly reduced passenger seating.
Leaving Sun Moon Lake
I took the 8:30 am 6669 bus as I wanted to avoid the super long line I saw for the 6670 bus back to Taichung when I arrived at 10am a few days ago. I figured, not many people would leave that early. True enough, when I arrived at the bus stop at 8:15, there were just 5 people ahead of me. Take note that the stop for the bus to Shuishe is opposite the bus shed. By the time the bus rolled in, we were just 10, all with suitcases or large packs. The bus had a regular seat layout unlike the one I rode on arrival. We crammed our suitcases on the aisles, near the back thereby blocking some of the rows of seats. Fortunately, only a few people were at the stops and there were enough seats at the front.
From Shuishe
There wasn’t much of a line at Shuishe. The bus came at 9:10am. More people rode at the different stops at Puli until the bus was full. I got off at the THSR station in Taichung after less than 2 hours.
I thought of taking the boat to Shuishe which was departing at 8:40am but I thought the bus was easier and was also cheaper (NT 100 compared to NT 150 of the boat).
To Taipei
As expected, being a long New Year weekend, there were so many people at the Taichung HSR station. I tried to change my 1:39pm ticket to Taichung to an earlier time but only non-reserved seats were available. With my large suitcase, I didn’t want to risk standing for an hour to Taipei and cramping everyone with my suitcase, so I just stuck with my original schedule. Anyway, 2 hours isn’t really much and thebstation had lots of interesting shops.
Beautiful Sun Moon Lake
There was a light rain falling when I woke past 6 in the morning; not exactly okay for my trip to Sun Moon Lake. I had previously checked out Gancheng Station yesterday which was good as there were three bus stops with the last one being for the 6670 bus to SML and looking for the right one while lugging a 30k luggage would be such as hassle.
I arrived at the bus stop with the 7:45 bus already waiting. The guy at the counter scanned my Klook qr code and gave me an Easycard with an SML design. It was loaded with NT 180 for the roundtrip ride. I made a quick dash to the toilet then boarded the bus. The driver asked if I was heading to SML then pointed at my luggage and said to just bring it on board. There weren’t many passengers and there was a large space in the center of the bus which I assumed was for lugagges. Even when we picked-up a few people on the way, the bus was not full.
Asid3 from the major stops indicated on the time table, there were bus stops in between. Puli, for example, had a few bus stops such as “Puli Winery” and “Puli Bus Station” where the lone Caucasian tourist on board diaembarked.
We pulled into the stop opposite the Shuishe Visitors Center, the last stop, at around 10am. It was still lightly raining. There was already a long line of people waiting for the 6670 to Taichung at the side of the big 7-11. The girl at the ticket counter told me to take the 6679, the round-about bus, to Ita Thao which was arriving at 10:40. I just love how Taiwanese buses have all these set times which makes planning your trip so easy.
The bus did arrive at 10:40am and I was the first one to board. I had apprehensions with my big luggage but it was for naught. The bus wasn’t full and there was space at the center. The bus wound its way on the winding mountain road with people getting off at some of the stops. I almost missed mine as I didn’t know Yidashao was Ita Thao. I was quite confused that the LED board read “Yidashao” after stopping at the Rope Way bus stop. I thought it was an extra stop that wasn’t indicated on the schedule I had downloaded from the Nantou Bus website; so, I didn’t press the stop button. Fortunately, the bus stopped at the bus stop and I saw “Ita Thao” on the sign board. I quickly pressed the stop button and alighted. I guess the driver assumed I was getting off there coz buses just pass by the bus stop if no one presses the stop button or no one flags down the bus at the stop.
It was just a short walk to Ji Qiam Guesthouse on the street parallele to the shopping and food street. The grandpa and grandma running the place let me check-in early at around 11:20.
Spent the rest of the day hopping off one pier to another with the NT 300 round trip boat ticket.
Arriving in Taichung
I’m back in Taiwan. This time, rather than heading to Taipei, upon arriving at Taoyuan airport, I took the MRT to Taoyuan HSR for the high-speed train to Taichung. I had previously purchased my ticket at the THSR ticket in anticipation of a full train. Also, I booked the 6:35pm trip in case my EVA Air flight got delayed from Manila; but everything turned out well. We departed and arrived on time and I was out of the airport by 4pm which meant there was plenty of time left before my 6:35pm train. On arrival at the THSR station at Taoyuan, I had my ticket changed to an earlier trip. I just showed my reservation code to the lady at the ticket counter, told her to book me an earlier train and paid NT 55 cancellation fee for my previous ticket.
Waited for the train at Platform 1 (south-bound) under the LED sign that said “9” which was my car number and by the spot on which there was a sign at the floor that showed the seat numbers. How cool! It makes getting on the train and finding your seat so much easier. The train arrived promptly a few minutes before the departure time. There was space behind the last row seats for the luggage. I was quite worried about luggage space but the leg room is wide enough to allow large suitcases in case the luggage area is full. There’s also space for smaller luggages at the storage shelves above the seats. There were lots of empty seats in my car.
The 36 minute ride to Taichung was quick. I tried not to fall asleep lest I miss my stop. The Taichung HSR station is really huge with lots of shops and eateries. Went down to Level 2 and followed the signs to the TRA station to connect to the train to Taichung Station.
Not knowing which train to take as the LED sign board was in Chinese, I asked the lady at the ticket counter. She told me to go down at Platform 2 and take any train and that I could use my Easycard to pay. At the platform was a LED sign that indicated a train to Zhuoyo was coming in about 15 mins. I checked Google Maps just to be sure that it was the right train.
The nearly empty train pulled up and it looked like the ones used in the MRT with seats along the side rather than front facing which was good as it meant room for large luggages. Taichung Station was the fourth stop and that was where most people got off. Just took about 10 minutes.
After departing Manila at 1pm, I finally arrived at my hotel room at the Taichung Central District at 8pm.
How to get to Taichung from Taoyuan Airport
Upon arrival, take the MRT to Taoyuan HSR station (NT 35).
Klook offers MRT tickets but the price is for the ride all the way to Taipe Main Station (NT 160). There’s no option for shorter trips; thus it’s better to buy the ticket at the station.
At HSR station, if you have not yet bought your ticket online, buy at the counter or at the ticket machine. Be sure to buy a reserved ticket so you can get a seat. There are non-reserved sections of the train where seats are first-come first-served.
The trains to Taichung are on Platform 1. Look for the sign above that indicated your car number. Then look at the signs on the floor that indicate your seat number ( e.g. 17-21).
There are spaces at the back of the train car for luggages. The leg room between seats is also wide enough to fit your legs and your large luggage. If you have a big 30k luggage like mine, better to take an aisle seat ( indicated as C or D in your ticket) so you have more space. There are overhead shelves that fit carry on luggage.
A LED sign on the car announces the stops. Taichung is the fourth stop.
Upon arriving at the Taichung HSR station, take the elevator to Level 2 and follow the signs to the TRA station. It’s about a 5-10 minute walk as the station is huge.
Trains to Taichung Station are on Platform 2. You can buy your ticket at the counter or at the ticket-vending machines. Better, top-up your Easycard and just swipe.
At the platform is a LED sign that announces when the next train is due. Taichung is just 11 minutes away and is the fourth stop.
Being in Belgium
Like my trip to Baku a few years ago, I never expected to be in Antwerp or anywhere in the entire country of Belgium. Belgium was just Flanders, waffles, and chocolates; three things that I like but not enough for me to want to visit. Not because I find no interest in visiting it but because there are other countries that seemed to fit the tourist expectation more. Countries like Italy, for example. Nevertheless, like so many other good things in my life, being in Belgium was unexpected and faster than saying Guylian, I found myself in the quaint city of Antwerp after about 18 hours of travel from Manila with a stopover at Abu Dhabi.
Arriving at Brussels airport and going through immigrations and customs was quick and easy as I was part of a small group from the university who has a study grant from the Flanders government. As the train from Brussels sped through the grey autumn landscape, I still had that “I’m actually in Belgium” giddyness. We finally arrived at Antwerp and it was freezing cold. As we made our way to the hotel, the scenery that lay before us seemed straight from the apocalypse. There were hardly any people or cars. The shops we passed by were also closed. We were to learn later on that Sundays were spent visiting family. I’ll never forget that grey, cold, and quiet scene that welcomed us to Antwerp.
Why Kota Kinabalu?
Kota Kinabalu seems to be under the radar for most Filipino travelers. In the all the times I have been here, even during holidays, the planes have never been full and I have hardly met fellow Filipinos. It’s such a pity because KK and the whole of Sabah is such an enjoyable place to visit and really worth the trip. Here’s why:
1. Cheap airfare from Manila.
When I was planning my trip for the Lent break, KK had the cheapest fare at Cebu Pacific. Yeah, so it’s a red-eye flight, but so are many other budget flights. Besides, it’s just an hour and a half flying time.
2. Afforable accomodations.
From backpacker dorms to mid-range hotels, there are loads of choices for the budget-conscious. I stayed at Capitol Hotel for about Php 1,600/night booked via Agoda and I had a very comfortable and large room with 5-star service. Even the backpacker places at Gaya St. I stayed at before were clean and comfy
3. Good food.
I can’t get enough of all the good and affordable food choices at KK. From satay to laksa to bakuh teh to roti cobra to tuaran mee. Gaya St. ,in particular, has all these kopi tiam and kedai makan that serve really good food. The bonus to my recent trip was all the Ramadan food bazaars and buffets. With a sizeable Chinese population, you can expect its cuisine to be making a mark in the local food scene. You can have your fill of noodle soup and those pork-filled buns. Yup! You read it, PORK. Non-halal food is plentiful, especially in Kota Kinabalu. Some of the indigenous people as well as the Chinese are non-Muslim which accounts for the fact that pork and alchohol are readily available.
4. Relaxed vibe
The Sabahans are actually proud of their relaxed vibe. There is an easy going feel. Watching the sea and the sunset at the waterfront in KK kinda sums up the experience. Even the traffic seems relaxed. No honkings. In addition, Sabah has a very diverse population with very diverse cultures which happen to pleasantly mix with each other.
5. Beautiful attractions
I’ve climbed Kinabalu and done the Via Ferrata, cruised the Kinabatangan, visited the orangutans at Sepilok, sighted proboscis monkeys and fireflies at the Klias wetlands, and indulged in local culture at Mari-Mari Cultural Village and the Sabah Museum. Not to mention done my shopping at the malls. Sabah has a myriad of attractions and tours are quite affordable.
There is much to love in Sabah. In my recent trip on April which was during Ramadan, I spent seven days in Kota Kinabalu just meandering and flowing along with the relaxed atmosphere.
Arriving at Kota Kinabalu Guide 2023
I arrived at Kota Kinabalu around 1:30 am from Manila via Cebu Pacific 5J 733. There seemed to be just one other flight.
Immigrations: Nothing to fill-out. No lines. Quick and easy.
Duty-Free: It was open.
Luggage: I didn’t have check-in luggage so I don’t know how quickly the luggages were loaded to the carousel. Saw passengers from another airline waiting for theirs.
Customs: Just load your luggage at the xray and you’re done.
SIM cards: Shops were open. Got a Tune Talk SIM for RM35.
Money Changer: Shops were open. Rate was kinda low. Just change enough to get some ringgit for transport.
Taxi: There’s a pre-paid taxi stall after the shops. RM 30 to center of town. Pay and get the coupon. The taxis are outside. Just present the coupon to them. Took about 15 mins to Capitol Hotel.
UPDATE: I was told by a Grab driver that they operate 24 hours but past midnight, there might not be a lot of rides available. If you can book a Grab, it will be 50% cheaper.
Food: A KFC was open by the exit.
Other Requirements: Got an email from the airline reminding me to download the MySejahtera app. So, I did. I also took a screen shot of the QR code. However, no one asked for it. Official sites say, it’s no longer required.
Masks: Optional in KK but many locals wear them.
Back in Kota Kinabalu
As I write this, I’m supposed to have taken the 2am Cebu Pacific flight back to Manila today but me being me, decided to extend my stay in Kota Kinabalu for a couple of more days to maximize the super long holiday. I’ve been a good boy this past few days; watching my diet and not overeating unlike in Bangkok and attending online Lent church services. You see, there’s something in KK that puts you at ease; the good food, the waterfront, and the generally relaxed attitude of the Sabahans. Climbing Kinabalu,cruising the Kinabatangan, and visiting the orangutans at Sepilok have long ago been crossed-off my bucket list. Must be my age. I’m seeking less adrenaline now. Cruising the Klias for some proboscis monkeys and fireflies yesterday was enough adrenaline for me already. Jalan jalan just around the streets and the waterfront largely make-up my day. Plus, I really like my room at Capitol Hotel, which means I’m in no rush to head out.
I just had some roti cobra and a couple of roti canai at the highly-rated Sri Latha Curry House for breakfast and my tummy is still full. Passing by the shared taxi and mini van parking area by Merdeka Square brought. The area was devoid of people and the vehicles were idling by. The entire scene seemed so sad and forlorn and I had a sudden ache in my memory for my past self when I would probably be haggling for a trip to Ranau or Kudat. Oh well.
Weekend Backpacker 
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